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Get Extraction Smart

No matter what workshop you work in, extraction is paramount. Your safety should always come first and making sure you have the right extractor for your work will improve this no end.

If you’re an employer or employee, you will have undoubtedly heard of LEV (Local Exhaust Ventilation) and its implications, as in the workplace you have to comply to COSHH (Control of Substances Hazardous to Health) regulations. But if you’re a home user, you may not have heard of it.

What is LEV?

Simply put, LEV is extraction and is about getting the right system in place for the type of work you do. This is so you can reduce exposures to airborne contaminants such as dust in the workplace.
An LEV system typically comprises five parts:

  1. Hood - Captures the contaminant at its source
  2. Ducting - Conducts air from hood to discharge point
  3. Air cleaner - Filters or cleans extracted air
  4. Air mover - The engine that moves the air through the system - usually a fan
  5. Discharge - To release air into a safe place

We could go on and on (very easily) about this subject but we won’t as you would be here for quite a while. If you want to learn more about LEV, the HSE has an extremely thorough guide on all of its aspects which you can find here.

What we ARE going to give you is a brief insight into how you can get the right LEV system in place for your wood workshop so you can stay safe while working.


Extractors for the small home workshop

As this generally involves you, working in your own workshop, you don’t have to comply to COSHH regulations about LEV. However, this doesn’t mean that you shouldn’t think about it, far from it in fact.

When thinking about extraction at home, it’s important to consider the size of the machines, their extraction ports and the air velocity needed to safely extract the waste.

A lot of smaller machines will have extraction ports in varying sizes ranging from 31 to 63mm, so getting the correct extractor and extraction system that will maintain high air velocity in these systems is vital. We would recommend a vacuum extractor (low air volume, high vacuum pressure) to reduce the risk of blockages.

Other things to consider with this is a 63mm extraction system and rubber reducers to connect the smallest of the machines to the system itself. If you’re someone who uses a mobile vacuum extractor connected to a single machine then a 63mm hose kit will suffice.

Axminster Craft dust extractor

Extractors for the large home workshop

Once again, this shouldn’t have to involve complying to COSHH regulations if it’s just you using the space, but depending on the machines you’ll be fitting this to there are a few questions to answer.

When discussing a larger home workshop, we’re talking about machines with 100mm dust extraction ports which will require high volume, low pressure extractors such as the AWEDE2, which has a 1hp motor.

If you’re connecting a single machine to the extractor, a 100mm hose kit with hose clips should suffice, as long as the extractor you’re using has an airflow higher than the machine's minimum extraction airflow rating. These ratings will be found on the machine’s specification tag, on the website or in the product manual.

Connecting to multiple machines? A basic 100mm dust extraction kit is a great place to start using an extractor with a bit more ‘suck’. A 2hp model will generally have enough airflow to cover using a couple of machines at once.

Fine Dust Extractor

Extractors for the trade workshop

If you’re setting up a new trade workshop or thinking of expanding to become an employer you may be interested in...


Final thoughts

No matter what the workshop, extraction must be considered and not just any old extractor. Take time to understand the right extractor you need for your needs. Always make sure you have an extractor with comfortably enough air flow, a system that will allow air velocity to be maintained and ensure you equip yourself with products from a supplier that you trust. If you would like to know more on which extractor is best for your workshop take a look at our helpful Dust Extractor Buying Guide.

With all of these things, you can be confident you and your colleagues will be working in a safe environment so you can concentrate on the important things.

Would you like to know any more about LEV? You can call our Business Services Team on 0800 371822 who will be able to provide advice on the system for you. We can also put you in contact with a trusted partner if you require testing or installation of LEV systems.

Get Extraction Smart No matter what workshop you work in, extraction is paramount. Your safety should always come first and making sure you have the right extractor for your work will improve this no end. If you’re an employer or employee, you will have undoubtedly heard of LEV (Local Exhaust Ventilation) and its implications, as in the workplace you have…

Over the years, I’ve had several bandsaws in the workshop. To my mind, they’re one of the essential machines. I can quite easily do without a table saw, but a bandsaw is a ‘must have’.

The first one I had was a French-made Euro 260. I bought it in the 90s from the original Axminster Tools shop on Chard Road. It did sterling duty in both my original ‘shop and the current one. But like all good things, it was getting a bit tired after nearly 20 years or so. It was replaced last January with one of our new Trade Series BS11 machines.

Straightforward Setup

Bandsaws look complicated to set up, but provided the correct sequence is followed, they’re pretty straightforward. Having slackened the tension and taken off the old blade, my routine when I fit a new one is to back off all guides, thread the blade onto the wheels and then apply around half pressure to check the tracking adjustment. Once the blade is sitting squarely in the middle of the bandsaw wheel tyres, the guides are repositioned with the correct clearances and full tension is applied. I then spin the wheels freehand watching the tracking of the blade. The last thing to do before the doors are closed is to give the bearings a good squirt of dry lubricant.  Then it’s time to switch on. Provided I’ve done everything correctly, the blade usually spins perfectly without too much bother.

However, what I’ve never done is to check the alignment of the fence against the blade. I’ve always made the assumption that the fence will be set up by the manufacturers. Having bought the UJK Technology Bandsaw Buddy to check for this very thing, I was quite surprised to find some ‘toe out’ on the fence.

The effect of this misalignment is to upset the way the saw blade tracks. It won’t naturally want to follow a straight line cut, but will instead tend to veer. The inevitable result is the user has to make an extra effort to keep it cutting true. At worst, the blade may deviate from its intended line.

Simple adjustments

Having realised some adjustment to the fence was needed, I had a look through the excellent User Manual and there it was on p17…a pic of the Bandsaw Buddy in place. To make the adjustment, all I needed to do was to slacken off the four nuts (arrowed), nudge the complete table into the right position and then re-tighten. The fence was then aligned spot on with the saw blade.

bandsaw_buddy_01&02

Having sorted out the BS11, I then turned to my big Startrite and was again slightly surprised to see that the fence wasn’t parallel to the blade.

bandsaw_buddy_03

Unlike the BS11 where the table is moved slightly, on the Startrite, it remains stationary. It’s the fence rail which is adjusted. It’s the work of a few moments to adjust the rail bolts (arrowed) at either end. Before adjusting your fence, refer to your particular bandsaw’s book of words.

bandsaw_buddy_04

This has the effect of swinging the fence round a so that when it’s tightened up again, it’s parallel to the blade.

Apart from its main use of checking the fence alignment, there’s also a matrix of holes which can be used to mark out circular turning blanks as well as a nifty little rule across one end for setting the thickness of cut on the bandsaw.

If you haven’t invested in a Bandsaw Buddy, I would definitely recommend getting hold of one!

Over the years, I’ve had several bandsaws in the workshop. To my mind, they’re one of the essential machines. I can quite easily do without a table saw, but a bandsaw is a ‘must have’. The first one I had was a French-made Euro 260. I bought it in the 90s from the original Axminster Tools shop on Chard Road….

In the strive for perfection, there’s always room for improvement. We think our machines are pretty perfect but add in some carefully selected accessories and you can make them even greater.

Planer Thicknessers

Planer Thicknessers
Axminster Hobby Series AH106PT Planer Thicknesser and Axminster Trade Series AT107PT Planer Thicknesser
planer-thicknesser-accessories

To keep the machine working at its optimum, it should be kept it in peak condition. The cast iron tables need to remain smooth and rust free by using maintenance products such as the Axminster Machinery Maintenance Kit (1).

Finish on the wood slightly diminishing? Get your blades back to their former glory by using a diamond hone (2). If the blades are past the point of no return and you need to replace them, be sure to set them at the right height with a planer blade setting jig (3).

A planer thicknesser will often have to moved around depending on the required functionality, the size of the timber and for ease of storage in the workshop. To enable this to be done quickly and without fuss, a mobile base (4 & 5) is an essential piece of kit. To enable further ease of use, a roller stand (6) is a great asset when using long pieces of material, especially when working alone.

PPE is not only a must in order to work safely when using a planer thicknesser but also helps you perform to your very best. When in use, these machines produce a high decibel level and can send chips flying in all directions so ear defenders (7) and eye protection (8) are imperative. Guide blocks (9) will also keep your hands away from the cutter block and apply an even pressure on the boards when planing.

extractors
Axminster Hobby Series FM300BC Extractor and Axminster Trade Series CT-90HB Extractor

Suitable extraction is paramount when using a planer thicknesser as they produce a vast amount of chippings. Although not considered to necessarily improve the functionality of a planer, this will undoubtedly improve your working conditions. Make sure you get a chip extractor with a large collection bag and the airflow to match the machines needs. For more information on choosing the right extractor, read our guide.

Bandsaws

Untitled-1
Axminster Hobby Series HBS250N Bandsaw and Axminster Trade Series SBW4300B Bandsaw
bandsaw-accessories

The old adage that your saw is only as good as your blade applies to almost all bandsaws. To make sure that you get the right blade for your saw, we have a fantastic range of blades from high carbon (1) to premium (3), with our unique, long lasting GT blades (2) sure to catch your eye! If you’re not sure which blade is for you, view our guide here.

You won’t find a handier accessory for a bandsaw than our Bandsaw Buddy! (4) With four great uses including blade setting and improved vernier cutting, it’s quickly become a must-have in any workshop.

If you’re looking to cut mitres, only the best mitre fence will do. Try the UJK Technology Compact Mitre Gauge and Fence (5) to improve the accuracy of your mitres. Worklights (6) are handy anywhere but get one with a magnetic base to fit onto your bandsaw and allow you maximum visibility for precision work.

Bandsaws, although not always heavy, can be awkward to move so when cutting large pieces of timber where a lot of space is required, a mobile base (7) will get your saw in place with minimal effort.

A featherboard (8) will not only improve accuracy on the bandsaw but even more importantly, provides improved safety,; keeping fingers away from the blade and preventing the risk of kickback. Woodworking always poses a threat to your eyes, so make sure you take precautions with safety specs (9).

extractors2
Numatic PSP 180-11 Vacuum Cleaner and Axminster Trade Series CT-90HB Extractor

Although extraction isn’t perfect on a bandsaw, it is still absolutely necessary. Not only does it increase safety and keep your workshop clean, it also means the machine can work to its optimum without a buildup of dust on the table or band wheels.

Extractors

extractors3
Axminster Hobby Series AWEDE2 Extractor and Axminster Trade Series T-2000CK-200H 2HP Cyclone Extractor
extractor-accessories

One sure fire way of improving an extractors performance is to upgrade the filter cartridge. Doing this for the AWEDE2 (1) will get the filtration of this machine down to 1 micron; ideal for handling dusts produced by bandsaws and tablesaws. A plastic waste bag (2) will also be required to collect the larger particles.

If your extractor already has 1 micron filtration, fit a HEPA module (5) to improve this further to 0.3 microns; enabling you to handle even the finest of dusts as produced by sanders.

Some extractors come with hoses as standard, but for those that don’t it’s important to fit a high quality hose, as cheaper ones can tear under duress. Getting one with rubber end cuffs (3) is always a big help to ensure a simple, close fit. If you have a static extractor but need it to work with a couple machines in your workshop, why not try a retractable hose (4)? Only 1m in length when retracted, this can stretch out to 6m, large enough for almost any workshop.

If, however, you plan to have many machines in the workshop, it may be time to start thinking about a dust extraction kit. For the home workshop user, the 100mm dust extraction kit (6) will provide you with everything you need to get started. For the trade user looking for something a bit more permanent and heavy duty, this metal ducting kit (7) is a fantastic way to get your workshop extraction to its pinnacle performance.

In the strive for perfection, there’s always room for improvement. We think our machines are pretty perfect but add in some carefully selected accessories and you can make them even greater. Planer Thicknessers To keep the machine working at its optimum, it should be kept it in peak condition. The cast iron tables need to remain smooth and rust free…

Drilling should never be boring

Drilling/boring, whatever you want to call it, when you need to make a hole in wood not all bits are the same. Whether you want to create clean crisp holes or speed is a priority, avoid complications by choosing the right bit.

Forstner

Faster with a Forstner

To a create a flat bottomed hole for hinges or when you need a larger hole with a crisp edge, Forstner bits will do it precisely. The crispness of the edge and the unique way the holes can be overlapped are reasons why Forstner bits are considered a crucial cutting tool by woodworkers.

Forstner

Why Axcaliber Forstner Bits?

Each piece is made by FISCH in Austria, who meticulously choose the best raw materials to ensure the highest standard of cutting tools. The sharpness of the edge produces accurate holes so you can get the best possible finish.

Axcaliber Quick Change 5 Piece Forstner Bit Set

Auger

Reach new depths

When you need to drill a hole through thicker material, auger bits are designed to penetrate the wood to a greater depth. Any waste is cleared efficiently away from the cutting edge so you can produce holes with a relatively smooth edge which are uniform all the way through.

Auger

Further with FISCH

A set of six auger bits, 235mm long for drilling longer holes such as between joists.

FISCH Quick Change 6 Piece Auger Bit Set

Spade

Speed with a Spade

Spade bits are great at producing large holes quickly but they lack the smooth finish of an auger bit. When speed is a priority and you’re less concerned about how the hole looks, a spade bit will get the job done quickly.

Bosch SELFCUT 6 Piece Speed Flat Bits Set (Hex Shank)

Twist

Twist Drills

For accurate holes in wood, metals or plastics, twist drills will quickly achieve a specific diameter. They are also the most widely used due to the number of different sizes available. However, with an abundance of bits at different prices, don't just go for the cheapest ones. Look for qualities such as High-Speed Steel which has a higher wear resistance and TiN coating for extra durability.

170 Piece Drill Bit Set

Drilling should never be boring Drilling/boring, whatever you want to call it, when you need to make a hole in wood not all bits are the same. Whether you want to create clean crisp holes or speed is a priority, avoid complications by choosing the right bit. Faster with a Forstner To a create a flat bottomed hole for hinges…

Although it sounds simple, this is a bit of a ticklish area to discuss. It is liable to raise the hackles of some makers who might rightly argue that metalwork has no place in a fine woodworking workshop. However, this argument doesn’t really hold water as the messiest job in the workshop is tool sharpening. I couldn’t see any real reason why an equally dirty metalwork area shouldn’t be included in the workshop, with the caveat that it’s kept well away from the main bench.

What's the problem?

The reason, of course, is the danger that dirty, oily pieces of swarf steel filings and bits of old rag could somehow contaminate the current work at the bench. I was of this persuasion for many years. But it gradually dawned on me that there could be a place for a metalwork area, if it was organised properly.

I found that in my particular woodworking workshop, I needed to occasionally partake in a bit of ‘tin bashing’ or similar. Nothing too onerous, but sufficient to accumulate offcuts of dirty steel or brass and copious amounts of swarf in the form of tiny bits of metal, that should really be kept in a self contained area.

Sharpening area

In the same way that I have a dedicated sharpening area, I decided to create a metalworking bench. This area isn’t very big. It is just over a metre long and fitted at one end with a small mechanic’s vice. The top is a hardboard over 18mm ply, which provides a smooth surface. I don’t need to be too careful with it and as such I can afford to let it become oily and a bit mucky. On my vice, the soft jaws are made from oddments of 90° aluminium extrusion epoxied to the steel jaws. As it’s in a fairly dark area of the workshop, there’s a 60W spotlight to provide sufficient lighting. It’s also a useful area for silver soldering, which was recently included as part of the project to make a Japanese Marking Gauge.

Metalwork area
Metalwork area

What else?

The type of work done on the metalwork bench isn’t serious engineering, model making or anything too precise. It’s been racked out with some fairly basic hand tools, some of which were acquired or made as an apprentice in the 60s. They consist of:
Hacksaws
Calipers
Engineer’s square 
Scriber
Centre Punch 
Cold chisel 100mm long
Ball pein hammer 
Screwdriver
Die holder 
Tap wrench
Files
Needle files 
300mm rule 
Electrician’s pliers 
Instrument wire cutters 
Instrument long nosed pliers 
Combination spanners 8, 10 & 13mm 
Adjustable wrench 
Adjustable locking wrench 
Brass brush
Tool maker’s clamp

Axminster Engineer Series C1 Micro Lathe
Axminster Model Engineer Series C1 Micro Lathe

Very occasionally there’s been a need to turn a small metal component of some sort and, although there’s no room for a big engineering lathe, the C1 micro, which weighs 22kg, would be just about the right size to lift onto the bench. The other alternative is the diminutive C0 which tips the scales at a lightweight 13kg and can almost be lifted with one hand.

Axminster Engineer Series C0 Micro Lathe
Axminster Model Engineer Series C0 Micro Lathe

The metalwork area does take up a small amount of space, which could, if pushed, be used for another machine, say a spindle sander. But the usefulness of having a dedicated ‘dirty area’ far outweighs the need for another piece of machinery.

You may agree or violently disagree with the idea of a metalwork area in your woodworking workshop. But however you feel about it, we’d like to hear your views or suggestions.

Although it sounds simple, this is a bit of a ticklish area to discuss. It is liable to raise the hackles of some makers who might rightly argue that metalwork has no place in a fine woodworking workshop. However, this argument doesn’t really hold water as the messiest job in the workshop is tool sharpening. I couldn’t see any real…

Introduction by Rob Stoakley

I was initiated into the mysteries of the spindle moulder around 20 years ago or so. I dimly recollect this particular machine was an ancient, brooding, squat slab of ominous dark grey cast iron and steel, but apart from that, I didn’t know anything about it.

I was also completely unaware of its fearsome reputation.

The penny began to slowly drop when the old boy who was showing me how to set it up reached down to a rack beside the machine and reappeared with a vast, equally ancient spanner, whereupon he began to use both hands to tighten the block to the spindle. He then applied a similar amount of force with a smaller spanner to ensure the cutters were secure. When I asked about all the leverage, his only reply was to say that... "the cutters sometimes come adrift."

Some years later, I was chatting to another maker who recalled the time he was innocently using a pillar drill some 15 feet away from a colleague who was machining with an older style spindle moulder cutter block. He recalled hearing a dull thud a few inches from his ear and on turning to see where the noise came from noticed a cutter embedded in the door jamb. Since that time, I’ve heard various tales about the state of workshop walls located near a spindle moulder.

Using our modern Axminster WS1000TA spindle moulder as an example, with a 125mm dia Axcaliber block and a spindle rotation of 9,000rpm, each cutter has a peripheral speed of approximately 132mph!

The Modern Spindle Moulder

Although these tales of woe are slightly off putting, the modern spindle moulder is little different to its predecessors, but changes in the tooling regulations mean that in operation, it’s much safer to use.

In broad terms, the regulations concerning the tooling state that each cutter must now be located in the cutter block by a pair of steel pins, meaning that it’s almost impossible for them to come loose. The pins also ensure that the cutters are perfectly aligned in the block while limiters also determine the depth of cut.

The machine consists of a very heavy steel base and preferably, a dead flat, cast iron top for stability as well as damping. Through the top projects a vertical 30mm diameter spindle, onto which is bolted a block containing the cutters. The spindle is controlled by ‘rise and fall’ mechanism operated by a handwheel which determines how much and where the cutter profile cuts the timber.

The motor is around 2hp; often more and bigger machines are three phase as shaping a large profile requires a lot of power. Spindle speeds vary from 2,500-10,000rpm and are changed using either a pulley belt system or direct electronic control. The maximum speed of rotation should also be engraved on the cutter block.

A fully adjustable, sophisticated fence, hold down and guards determine the limits of the cut as well as preventing the operator’s hands from getting too close to the cutters. The guard’s main purpose is to provide pressure on the workpiece to hold it very firmly onto the table and horizontally against the fence.

Compared to its smaller cousin, the router table, a spindle moulder is able to produce work with a much larger profile such as a crown moulding. The latter's undoubted versatility is further increased as some machines now have the option of a spindle tilt facility, which on the WS1000TA ranges from +5° to -45°, as well as a sliding table with an optional square frame for added support when machining large panels.

Axminster Industrial Series SS-512ML Spindle Moulder 3ph

Health and Safety

In common with all other woodworking machinery, a thorough knowledge of its operation as well as the instruction manual is mandatory and, should the prospective operator be unfamiliar with a spindle moulder, training sessions are also highly recommended.

The other aspect is that the machine must be connected to an efficient dust extraction system as it’s capable of producing an enormous amount of waste.

Accessories

As may be expected, there’s a vast range of accessories and cutter profiles for these machines to cover every eventuality in the workshop. Perhaps one of the most useful is a power feed, for example the Co-Matic M3 which ensures that a straight run of material can automatically be machined at a steady rate with the operator’s hands kept safely at a distance as in many instances they need to be quite close to the cutter block and the high speed of rotation makes the blades invisible.

The principal advantage of the power feed is a consistent finish as it eliminates burns and marks caused by pauses when the hands are changed as the wood is fed past the cutter block. As the work is held very securely, the risk of kickback is also eliminated.
Axcaliber Adjustable Chamfering Cutter Head
For curved work, another essential accessory is the Ring Fence, where the standard hood and fence is removed from the machine’s table. It’s then replaced with the fully guarded Ring Fence which then allows uninterrupted access to the cutter block and in common with all other procedures on this machine, great care must be taken with setting up and when in use.

Spindle Moulder or Router?

The spindle moulder is a machine for the trade as it is too large and heavy for a hobbyist's workshop. They also require a 20A supply which may be beyond the capacity of a domestic supply unless alternative arrangements are installed.

Instead the amateur or hobbyist is much more likely to own a router table though it has to be stressed that the same H&S aspects need to be respected. The router table is generally smaller, lighter and uses a standard ½” router as the power source. As such, smaller capacity work is produced, though it’s very often the case that a trade workshop will have both machines for larger and smaller applications.

Owing to the smaller diameter cutters, a router cutter rotates at around 20,000+rpm, but the peripheral speed of a tip compared to the spindle moulder may be a little slower. This is dependent on the diameter of the router cutter; for example, the tip of a 50mm diameter cutter rotating at 18,000rpm is travelling at 107mph - more info .

Whilst the larger capacity of the spindle moulder enables bigger projects to be machined, the small diameter of a router bit will follow a template in a tight inside curve that a spindle moulder cutter could never hope to achieve.

Finer, smaller work like fitting splines to a box or picture frame is far better done on a router table and one can also be built into a bench space used for other work or even folded up out of the way, whereas a decent sized spindle moulder takes up a lot of permanent workshop space.

UJK Technology Professional Router Tables

Conclusion

The spindle moulder is unquestionably an immensely useful and versatile machine and ought to be part of any trade workshop. Though once possessed of an unenviable reputation for throwing cutters across the workshop at high speed, the changes made in the regulations concerning the tooling mean that this is now undeserved, though all pertinent H&S precautions and good working practices must still be strictly adhered to.

A small spindle moulder is more efficient at taking on the bigger projects, but if most of the furniture produced in a hobbyist’s workshop is small scale and detailed, then a good quality router table with a cast iron or phenolic top will offer better opportunities.

Introduction by Rob Stoakley I was initiated into the mysteries of the spindle moulder around 20 years ago or so. I dimly recollect this particular machine was an ancient, brooding, squat slab of ominous dark grey cast iron and steel, but apart from that, I didn’t know anything about it. I was also completely unaware of its fearsome reputation. The penny…

Most woodworkers use a variety of machines and power tools, as they offer a number of advantages. Drawing up a prospective list of basic machinery for a new workshop, would include a table or panel saw, planer/thicknesser, bandsaw, pillar drill, spindle moulder and router table.

While machines reduce effort and speed up the workflow, they can also be expensive and take up space in a workshop. Machines also have the capacity to generate a huge amount sawdust and other waste, which makes an efficient dust extraction system essential. In addition, the running costs, as well as depreciation, should be taken into account. And last but not least, it’s important to adhere to all H&S regulations and provide staff with PPE where required.

Drum Sanders

Having discussed basic machinery requirements, a convincing argument could be made for including a drum sander on the list. But first, it is useful to describe how the machine works, and what it does.

As the name suggests, the machine consists of abrasive material (the ‘loading’) which is spirally wound onto a rotating drum. This can be moved up and down by a handwheel. The work is placed on a variable speed conveyor and it's slowly fed underneath the rotating drum. It passes through to the other side having been perfectly sanded.

The initial outlay is quite high, especially when it’s considered that it must be connected to an extraction system that will handle fine dust. That said, once installed and working, the machine will very soon recoup its outlay.

Some benefits include:

  • Solid boards with difficult grain can be sanded to a precise, accurate and smooth thickness
  • Once glued together, panels can be passed through the machine to sand the face frame, leaving it true and level
  • Larger machines will accept the width of a standard door (veneered or solid) in one pass
  • Smaller machines are ‘open ended’, meaning that a workpiece, which is twice the width of the conveyor, can be sanded in two passes
  • Drawer sides and other small components can be pre-sanded to thickness before use
  • When thick 2mm or 3mm veneers are cut on the bandsaw, the drum sander is ideal for sanding the sawn surface
Drum Sander

Planer/Thicknesser or Sander?

On first inspection, a drum sander is often thought of as a thicknessing device or to bring a rough sawn surface to a finished dimension. But nothing is further from the truth. Only a very light pass is required to sand a piece of sawn veneer (or similar). Attempting to remove too much material will cause the loading to clog and leave a burnt surface on the workpiece. It will also place too much of a strain on the open-ended cantilever arm.

Profile & Wire Brush Sanding

One option, which the Axminster ST-480 drum sander offers, is to replace the complete drum with one containing optional silicon carbide sanding brushes, which are available in a wide range of grits. The brush head is simple to fit in place of the sanding drum. It is very effective for sanding profiles and preparing mouldings for finishing. A wire brush attachment can also be fitted, which can be used to leave a distressed finish on new timber. Or for a brushed effect finish on a metal surface.

Oscillating Drum Sanders

The Jet 22-44 OSC is the largest of their open-ended sanders. It also has the unique feature of having an oscillating drum. This guarantees a very smooth surface, and at the same time, prolongs the life of the sanding belt.

Drum Sander

Dual Drum Sanders

At the top end of the range are the Industrial series of drum sanders. One of their many enhanced features, which make them rather special, are their twin drums. This means that the first drum can be loaded with coarser abrasive and the second with a finer finishing grit. The twin drums are fitted with digital read-outs, which show the overall sanding height, but more importantly, the difference in height between the two drums. This allows the rear drum to be easily re-set when changing the abrasive to a different grit.

Dual Drum Sander

Conclusion

In the initial stages of planning a trade or furniture making workshop, it’s our view that it’s very worthwhile considering the inclusion of a drum sander. If space can be found then one of these machines is without doubt one of the best that can be added to any workshop.

Most woodworkers use a variety of machines and power tools, as they offer a number of advantages. Drawing up a prospective list of basic machinery for a new workshop, would include a table or panel saw, planer/thicknesser, bandsaw, pillar drill, spindle moulder and router table. While machines reduce effort and speed up the workflow, they can also be expensive and…

A mortice and tenon joint is a fundamental method of joining wood together; it is simply a rectangular tongue (the tenon) which slots into a corresponding hole. The technique is so old that these joints can clearly be seen in the Museum of Egyptian Antiquities on a hunting stool that once belonged to the boy king Tutankhamun who died over 3000 years ago.

mortice_tenon_header

For centuries, the joint had to be cut by hand and some still do prefer to chop out a mortice and cut a tenon using only hand tools (click here to read our guide) but it’s a slow, laborious process which can become quite tedious when there’s a lot to do.

4

The rectangular hole or mortice is generally considered the most awkward part to chop by hand as the hole needs to be deep and usually quite narrow. The size, type and quantity of the mortices is governed by the project being constructed. During the process of cutting, the mortice will be filled with waste chippings which have to be removed and once complete, the bottom of the hole is generally quite uneven, so care needs to be taken to see that the overall depth is greater than the tenon.

501252_inset4-(1)

The advent of the morticing machine has speeded up the process to ensure that a very accurate cut is guaranteed every time. Whereas chopping one out by hand takes some considerable time, it’s the work of seconds with a morticer to cut out a similar sized, precise rectangular hole.

501252_inset2 (1)

The machine and its operation

In essence, a morticer is a very simple machine, consisting of a powerful motor which is moved vertically using a lever operated, rack and pinion mechanism, with adjustable stops to set the depth of cut. Directly underneath the motor’s chuck is a substantial table onto which the workpiece is securely clamped. Depending on the model, a single or double handwheel arrangement controls both longitudinal and lateral table movement, ensuring that the chisel is in precise alignment to cut the joint.

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Special morticing bits must be used in these machines and they consist of an auger bit which rotates inside a square, hollow chisel. One side of the chisel is open to allow the flute on the auger bit to expel the chippings as they’re produced.

It’s particularly important to heed the setting up instructions to allow clearance between the bit and the auger so that they always operate correctly. Watch our instructional video below:

Once the workpiece has been positioned, the first square hole is cut to the correct depth, with the auger simultaneously ejecting the waste chippings. The hollow chisel is then removed and the table moved sideways by the width of the chisel, which is then used to cut a second adjacent hole, thus enlarging the mortice to twice its width. The process is repeated several times along the length of the workpiece enlarging the hole each time by the width of the hollow chisel until the final cut has been machined and the mortice completed.

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In common with many other machines, morticers are built using a substantial amount of cast iron which not only dampens vibration but adds significantly to the overall weight. Even the smallest Axminster Hobby Series machine is an impressive 42kg; the larger capacity floor mounted Axminster Trade and Industrial rated morticers are considerably heavier. It’s therefore essential to pay attention to the correct lifting procedures and seek assistance when moving or installing them.

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The tenon

Being rather more exposed, the tenon is easier to produce and can be accurately made using a router table, spindle moulder or a dedicated industrial rated 3-head tenoner as found in many professional joinery ‘shops where there’s a requirement for this type of machine.

Tenoner

Chain morticer

On some projects, for example on green oak timber framing work, the workpiece is generally too large to lift, so the morticer needs to be brought onto site and used in situ. This is where a chain morticer is used and is invaluable for this type of application. It consists of a vertically mounted chain saw which is plunged into the wood and then traversed to make the mortice.

Conclusion

Chopping mortices by hand is time consuming, especially if the project is a large one and there are a lot of them. Even worse is when you’re up against time constraints. So whether you’re an amateur weekend woodworker or a full time professional in a production workshop, the workload can be eased as there’s sure to be an Axminster morticer to suit every requirement and pocket.

A mortice and tenon joint is a fundamental method of joining wood together; it is simply a rectangular tongue (the tenon) which slots into a corresponding hole. The technique is so old that these joints can clearly be seen in the Museum of Egyptian Antiquities on a hunting stool that once belonged to the boy king Tutankhamun who died over…

The Axcaliber range of TCT circular saw blades offer an unmatched blend of choice, cutting performance and price. Manufactured in one of the most advanced facilities in the world, they are produced to the highest standards using the finest materials available. With the range covering everything from hand held power tools right up to large panel saws, you can be certain to find a blade to suit every requirement. The range is in three parts, Contract, Premium and CutPro.

The Contract Range

The Contract range is from 165mm to 355mm. This covers everything from hand held circular saws, (including special thin kerf blades for cordless machines) right up to medium sized workshop circular saws. These blades feature tensioned, ground plates with laser cut arbor holes and anti-vibration slots for smooth running. Fine, micro grain TCT tips are accurately brazed onto the plate with a CNC welding machine before being automatically ground to a razor sharp edge. These blades are available in a wide range of sizes, with a choice of blade types in every size. You will also find some specialist blades for mitre saws and cordless tools.

The Premium Range

The Premium range is from 254mm to 400mm and is aimed very much at the professional and industrial user. Manufactured in a similar way, each plate is ground to an exceptional standard of accuracy, having a blade run-out of no more than 0.10mm on the very largest size. The Premium blades will give an exceptional cutting performance combined with a very reasonable price for such high technology blades.

The main features of Premium Saw blades

Increased Accuracy

Laser cut steel plates which are roller tensioned then ground for increased accuracy.

Impact Resistant Tips

TCT tips copper and silver sandwiched brazed on. This means the tips are impact resistant so there's less chance of them becoming detached.

Numerous Sharpening

Extra large Luxembourg Micro Grain tungsten carbide tips, CNC ground with diamond grinding wheels allowing up to 20 sharpens. A blade sharpening service is provided by all of our stores for a minimum of cost.

Noise Reducing

Resin filled laser cut noise reduction slots to prevent whistling. These blades are recognised by the HSE as an invaluable method of reducing workshop noise.

Tooth Configurations

Available in a number of different tooth configurations - course low tooth count for ripping work, general purpose a medium tooth count and fine high tooth count for finishing work.


Circular Saw Blade Terms

Tooth Geometry

With either alternate top bevel ground (ATB) or top centre ground (TCG) depending on the blade type, this often overlooked feature ensures best performance for each application.

Alternate Top Bevel Ground (ATB)

Our coarse tooth blades are all alternate top bevel ground, creating a sharp cutting point and edge for a better cut quality without chipping or splinters. Generally used for cutting natural timber, plywood, veneer or hardboard.

Top Centre Ground (TCG)

Top centre ground or triple chip grind as some call it are found on our finer tooth blades. They combine a balanced cutting force, low tooth drag and free chip flow to eliminate chipping in brittle materials such as chip board and laminates. Used to achieve smooth cuts in hard materials such as MDF.

Tooth geometry
Tooth geometry: Alternate Top Bevel Ground (left) and Top Centre Ground

The CutPro range

Designed for first class results in all natural timbers and man-made boards, CutPro blades are the perfect choice for professional use. They feature micro-grained TCT tips while the resin filled, laser-cut plates significantly reduce noise while cutting. The triple brazed Luxembourg Tungsten Carbide teeth offer greater impact. Lastly, a faint tensioning ring halfway across the plate indicates where each individual blade undergoes pre-stressing to guarantee smooth running. With the same fantastic features as the Premium range, CutPro blades also deliver a higher sheer angle. The 35°top level angle ensures an outstanding finish and performance and delivers a cleaner cut and less breakout on the underside.

When it comes to CutPro blades there's a choice of types. Firstly there's 160mm blades designed for track saws. These are ideal for Festool saws. Next, there's 165mm blades. These blades are available in standard kerf or thin kerf options. The latter is suitable for battery operated track saws and circular saws. All other size blades are designed for chop saws. These are only available in negative rake versions.

Which saw blade do I need?

There are several types of blade with each having a choice of use as well. There is a brief explanation below:

Rip Blade

These blades have the least number of teeth for the diameter, i.e. 250mm, 24 teeth (24T).  They are used for cutting with the grain in natural timbers, such as cutting down the length of a board or a baulk of timber. The tooth spacing is required to allow the waste material to be cleared from the cut, preventing the blade from binding and overheating. These are not suitable for cutting across the grain or for cutting ply or chipboard.

General Purpose or Combination Blade

These have more teeth for the diameter, again using a 250mm blade as an example it would have around 40 teeth (40T). These blades can be used for all types of cutting in natural timbers, however you will not get the best results possible. Ideal though for tasks not requiring a fine finish and well worth considering if you frequently need to cut  with or across the grain.

Crosscut or Fine Blade

Again, more teeth for the diameter, say 250mm X 60T. Used for cutting natural timber across the grain, creating a smooth, tear free cut. Can also be used for ply and all other man made boards. Not suitable for cutting with the grain as the long shavings created will clog the blade, with the result being a blade overheating and possibly suffering damage.

Fine Crosscut Blade

Sometimes known as an Extra Fine blade, these have the most teeth  (i.e. 250mm x 80T) and will give the cleanest possible cut across the grain in natural timbers. These are especially good for sizing panels. Often used on panel saws in conjunction with a scoring blade on faced or veneered boards. The tooth design is specially designed to create a perfect edge to the cut, with no chipping or tear out.

Thin Kerf Blade

These are much thinner in section and are best suited to mitre or chop saws that have no riving knife. The thin blade section means that much less material is removed during the cut and so less power is required. Commonly used on battery powered hand held circular saws to lengthen the battery life between charges. For the busy contractor on site they make a lot of sense. They also work well on lower cost benchtop circular saws, just be aware that if a riving knife is used it must be thinner than the kerf of the blade.

Negative Rake Blade

Perfect for use on mitre saws and radial arm saws, the negative rake angle of the tooth prevents the blade from “climbing” over the work. The cut entry is much softer which makes the machine safer to use. These blades can also be used for aluminium tube and extrusions. The negative tooth angle prevents the collapse of the tube or extrusion wall. These are suitable for cross cutting work only.

PCD Diamond Saw Blade

Suitable for handheld circular saws, mitre saws and saw benches, the cutting teeth of Polycrystalline diamond (PCD) are far harder with up to 20x the life of a comparable TCT blade when used for certain applications. PCD makes excellent economic sense for professional trade use. Each PCD blade features resin filled expansion slots to reduce noise. Furthermore, the extra large gullet design improves the waste removal rate, for increased feed speed.

Ideal for the construction trade, PCD diamond blades will effortlessly cut through fibre cement. What's more, if you need to cut through gypsum or cement impregnated boards, it is no problem with these blades. They are perfect for cutting fibre cement boards/ cladding such as 'Hardiebacker', 'HardyPlank board','Marley Eternit', 'Cedral Lap Board', 'Cembrit', 'Minerit' etc, as well as compressed concrete panels.

A selection of Axcaliber Circular Saw Blades


Circular Saw Blade Round Up

The old saying that your saw is only as good as the blade you put in it is true in many cases and with the Axcaliber range of saw blades you will not be disappointed. With a huge variety of high quality blades on offer, you will be certain to find a blade for your task that will perform time and time again.

Choosing the right circular saw blade for your machine and your job makes the world of difference to performance. Here we take a look at the Axcaliber Premium and Contract ranges, helping you decipher which blade best suits your needs.

Introduction

Motors. They’re often seen as a large cylindrical object mounted somewhere on a piece of machinery. They may not be heard, but the results are certainly apparent when the ‘on’ button is depressed and the machine rumbles into life. I suspect most users give them very little thought (except when they break down) so it might be of some interest to look a little more closely at the motors used in some Axminster machinery.

Engineering Lathes

Axminster stock a range of engineering lathes from the diminutive, hobby rated Model Engineer Series C0 to a full sized, heavy duty machine suitable for the engineering or production workshop. Between these two, there’s a range of lathes to suit every application and several of them have the prefix ‘S’ which indicates that they’re powered by a sophisticated, brushless motor.

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HiTorque Motors

Most equipment contains a motor with a pair of carbon brushes, through which the electricity flows to the armature, in turn providing the rotary motion to power the machine. Sustained heavy loading in a brushed motor may result in unstable performance, shortened service life and even motor failure.
The first difference between brush and HiTorque motors is that the latter doesn’t rely on carbon brushes; instead the motor is brushless and is connected to an AC/DC convertor and it’s this which controls the motor speed by altering the input voltage and wave form.

There are also several other advantages in using these motors. Firstly, they run almost silently and secondly, there’s very little heat generated.

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As a consequence, under load, there’s no drop in torque, even down to almost zero rpm; it remains constant. Also, as there are no windings on the armature, there are no centrifugal forces to shorten the motor’s life. Another benefit is that the motors are sealed against dirt and contamination.
Finally, such is the effectiveness of brushless motors, they are well over 80% efficient.

Benefits

The use of a HiTorque brushless dc motor in a lathe presents several advantages which might not be immediately obvious. There are no belts or gears to change, the motor speed can be regulated from a clear digital panel on the front of the machine and there’s a very high degree of precise control. The forward and reverse functions on the lathe are almost instantaneous and easy to control which is a great advantage when tapping a thread.

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Practical Example

Consider two lathes in the following comparative test, the Model Engineer Series C2 and the almost identical SC2. The C2 has a 250W brush motor and the SC2 is 500W brushless. Both use the same lathe tool and with the same motor to spindle gear ratio resulting in a spindle speed of 450rpm.

S Series Motors
The results of this test show conclusively that the brushless motor is capable of working effectively under a greater load than the conventional brushed motor. Lathes and other engineering equipment which use HiTorque brushless motors are around 15% more expensive but they offer the advantage of considerably enhanced operational convenience.

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This graph shows that at low speeds the torque is excellent so that it can generate the required output to turn the load. Once the speed comes up torque does not need to be so high for the power output to remain, which is why torque goes down on a slight incline.

Introduction Motors. They’re often seen as a large cylindrical object mounted somewhere on a piece of machinery. They may not be heard, but the results are certainly apparent when the ‘on’ button is depressed and the machine rumbles into life. I suspect most users give them very little thought (except when they break down) so it might be of some…

Introduction

On the face of it, nothing is simpler than mounting a block of wood between two centres, spinning it and then applying a tool, or tools to shape it to the required form. The principal question that the prospective turner ought to ask is... "how easily do the parts move and how simple is it to work?"

buying_a_lathe01jpg

Budget and frequency of use are also crucial decisions to make, as well as the intended size of the lathe. It’s worth noting that small items can be turned on a larger lathe but not necessarily the reverse. Like many simple processes, there’s usually always much more to it than meets the eye and this is perhaps the allure that makes woodturning popular with so many customers. To see a stream of wood shavings spiralling away from a sharp tool is also hugely enjoyable.

Basic Requirements

The fundamental necessity for all lathes is mass, best provided by using cast iron which produces a strong, rigid platform for turning. The lathe might also additionally include a cast iron stand which further enables it to ‘damp’ or minimise any vibrations. The stand should also incorporate concave shaped legs which won’t impede access. The headstock should have sealed bearings which ought to be sufficiently robust to withstand the stresses caused by turning and at the same time, the diameter of the spindle should be as large as possible. A hollow headstock is also desirable to allow, for example, a driving centre to be easily removed.

Depending on the work produced, there should also be an adequate distance between centres and the height over the bed. The banjo should clamp easily onto the bed and the tool rest be strong enough to support the turning tools. The tailstock should also slide smoothly and be quick to clamp into the correct position. Both should be able to be clamped using one hand. The lathe bed ought to be sufficiently generous to offer adequate support to both the headstock and tailstock; smaller diameter round bed bars are to be avoided. The noise generated by the lathe is also worthy of consideration, especially at higher speeds.

Motor and Lathe Speeds

The lathe should be equipped with an adequately powered motor provided with an NVR switch. The motor speed is transmitted to the work via either a pulley belt system or the more desirable electronic variable speed or sometimes a combination of both. Pulley belt speeds should be able to be changed with the minimum amount of effort. Where the budget allows, electronic variable control provides more flexibility and a much easier way of altering the speed, though both should be used where appropriate, especially if turning a large bowl blank at low speed.

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Bowl and Spindle Turning

The two principal methods of turning are between the centres (headstock and tailstock) and using the headstock alone for bowl turning. Larger and heavier lathes sometimes have the advantage of a swivelling and sliding headstock, whereby it overhangs the bed so that a much larger diameter blank can be mounted. Where this is the case, the headstock should also be locked in the centre of the bed for added stability.

On smaller lathes, the diameter of the bowl is governed by the height of the headstock centre over the bed.
On smaller lathes, the diameter of the bowl is governed by the height of the headstock centre over the bed.

Health and Safety

Although immensely popular, woodturning is not without its dangers so it’s essential that the correct Health & Safety procedures are adhered to at all times. A moveable control box and ‘Emergency Stop’ button is also a great advantage as it can then be positioned for instant access if needed.

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A dust mask or respirator should be used as well as a full face shield or suitable eye protection. Where possible and especially when sanding, an adequate dust extraction system is also desirable. Finally, lathe chippings will find their way unannounced through any gap in ordinary clothing and for this reason, a dedicated, non-stretch turner’s smock comes very highly recommended.

Conclusion

Woodturning in all it’s forms is a very popular and enjoyable hobby. The purchase of a suitable, good quality lathe, plus other equipment and the acquisition of an increasing array of the woodturner’s skills will ensure that many a happy hour can be spent producing all manner of turned articles.

Introduction On the face of it, nothing is simpler than mounting a block of wood between two centres, spinning it and then applying a tool, or tools to shape it to the required form. The principal question that the prospective turner ought to ask is… “how easily do the parts move and how simple is it to work?” Budget and…

Introduction

The planer with its derivatives will quickly process timber to a finished state and is arguably the most important purchase after a table saw. It’s the job of the planer to produce two flat and square datum surfaces; a broad face and edge, after which the board can be machined further to a required thickness and width.

Planer Thicknessers

Where space is at a premium, the functions of a surface planer (or jointer) and thicknesser are combined into a planer/thicknesser. This offers a more practical option for the smaller hobby or trade workshop as it takes up far less valuable floor space. It’s also more economical to buy one machine rather than two.

Planers and Thicknessers

Where space is more generous, single function, separate machines offer a distinct advantage. There may be multiple users or a large volume of timber to be processed where it becomes an inconvenience to repeatedly change from one function to the next.

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Planer or Jointer Function

When considering a separate planer or planer/thicknesser, it’s advisable to look for large surfacing tables, especially if it’s anticipated that longer material will be used. To prepare a datum side and edge, each at 90° to one another, long surfacing tables are advisable which then makes it easier to accurately machine boards to leave them true and straight.

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Thicknesser Function

Once two datum faces have been machined, the timber is then passed through the thicknesser resulting in the remaining face and edge being machined parallel. In a planer/thicknesser, one or both surfacing tables, together with the fence are usually removed or re-arranged to allow access to the underside of the cutter block and the thicknessing table rises vertically to set the cutting thickness. In a dedicated thicknesser, the table remains stationary and the cutter block is dropped, or the table may be raised towards the cutter block, thus setting the thickness of the material to be planed.

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Key Features

Cast iron is the preferred material for surface tables, as it adds mass to the machine and damps out vibration. Both tables will need to be machined dead flat and they will have extra cast webbing on the underside to provide strength and eliminate any movement. However, on a planer thicknesser where a table is removed for the thicknessing function, machined cast aluminium tables are perfectly acceptable as the material is both light and strong.

A feature of all our tables is the noise reduction slots, which are adjacent to the cutter block and serve as a dual function; firstly to aid the airflow improving the extraction and secondly, to enable the machine to run more quietly. Accurate adjustment is also provided on one or both tables to allow for a variable depth of cut. Almost all Axminster machines have tables that are electrically interlocked to avoid starting if the cutter guard is not in place.

The fence is an integral part of all planers and planer/thicknessers, enabling a datum edge to be machined which is at 90° to the reference face, but it is easily adjusted and can be set to an angle other than 90° if required. The material of choice for most machines is extruded aluminium and on all the Axminster machines, changing from surface planing to the thicknessing mode means that the fence must be removed; a simple task which takes seconds.

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Planers, thicknessers and planer/thicknessers produce a vast amount of chippings and all our machines have suitable extraction ports for connection to a dedicated dust extractor.

Introduction The planer with its derivatives will quickly process timber to a finished state and is arguably the most important purchase after a table saw. It’s the job of the planer to produce two flat and square datum surfaces; a broad face and edge, after which the board can be machined further to a required thickness and width. Planer Thicknessers…

Ripper 37 blade

Points to consider

Length

The most obvious piece of information you need to know is “how long is my blade?” This should be on the spec label on your machine, or in the instruction book. If you have neither, please call us for advice.

Width

Secondly, you need to choose the width of blade. Always use the widest blade possible – it is stronger and will withstand greater feed pressures without flexing. Consult your machine manual for the maximum and minimum blade widths that it will accept.

If you are a woodturner, cutting bowl blanks with a bandsaw is both safe and effective. However, you will need to choose a blade that will cut the radius you need.

The minimum radius of curve for each blade width is as follows:

Blade width Minimum radius
13mm (1/2″) 63mm (2 1/2″)
10mm (3/8″) 27mm (1 1/16″)
6mm (1/4″) 19mm (3/4″)
5mm (3/16″) 13mm (1/2″)
3mm (1/8″) 10mm (3/8″)

And, don’t forget. A blade used for a batch of cutting bowl blanks will not be much use for straight cutting. Cutting curves will disturb the set of the teeth on the blade, consequently making it impossible to cut in a straight line. So we advise you to keep your bowl blank cutting blades separate from other blades. We also have a specialist curve cutting blade, the Back Tooth blade, for details see below.

Tooth form & pitch

The third area to consider is tooth form and pitch. This will depend on the type of work you intend to do, i.e. rip cutting (with the grain) or cross cutting (across the grain). Generally, a skip tooth blade is used for rip cutting, whereas a regular or triangular tooth blade is for cross cutting.

The skip tooth is provided on coarse tooth blades, those with 3, 4 and 6 teeth per inch; it has a wide shallow gullet with plenty of space for waste to collect. Please note that the quality of the cut can be adversely affected by sawdust packing between the teeth.

3 tpi (skip form)

Used for deep cutting especially rip cuts. This blade will leave a rough sawn finish although slow feed rate and high tension will improve the finish of the cut.

4 tpi (skip form)

Good for general-purpose use with a degree of cutting across the grain and with the grain. A reasonable finish can be achieved with slower feed rates and good tension.

6 tpi (skip form)

The ideal general purpose blade suitable for cross cutting up to 150mm and ripping in sections up to 50mm thick, although thicker sections can be cut using slow feed.

The regular, or triangular, tooth form is provided on blades with 10 or more teeth per inch where, because of the reduced material removal, there is less need for waste storage.

10 tpi (regular)

Good for cutting plywood and MDF as well as non-ferrous metals and plastics. The finish is good when cutting natural timbers, but the feed rate should be slow and maximum depth of cut should not exceed 50mm. When cutting metals, reduce the speed as much as possible especially when cutting ferrous metals or cast iron.

14, 24 and 32 tpi (regular)

A very clean cutting blade for plywood, plastics and MDF, although too fine for natural timbers unless they are very thin sections (sub 25mm thick). The 14tpi and above blades are very good to use at slow speeds when cutting non-ferrous metals. A slow feed speed should be used at all times with a blade tooth pitch this fine.

Blades with variable pitch teeth (4-6tpi, 6-10tpi and 10-14tpi) are also available for wider ranging applications (see Premium Bandsaw Blades).


Types

Now you have made the three basic choices, we will guide you through the types of blades that we offer. Depending on the length of blade required, it can be an easy choice or a little more complex. For machines with a blade length up to 70 1/12”, we supply high carbon blades only. This is because small machines need a highly flexible blade to accommodate small diameter wheels and relatively low power motors. High carbon steel bandsaw blades are often known as “Standard Blades”. Standard blades are best described as general purpose and are fit for all those normal tasks in the workshop where a smooth, good quality, ‘no fuss’ performance is required, day in and day out.

Ground Tooth Bandsaw Blades

Our “Standard Blades” are the unique Ground Tooth (GT) design. This newly developed material is designed for the production user with high feed rates of cutting and is ideally suited to the rigours of running on two wheels. The diamond ground teeth are so unbelievably sharp (they stay sharper for at least 30% longer) that the blades work extremely well in all materials giving an exceptionally high quality finish and clean cut. The GT range is designed for general purpose board and cross grain cutting work.


Freshcut 37 GT

Its sister range for rip cutting is the Freshcut 37. The teeth are precisely diamond ground, before going through a hardening process, then annealed for flexibility and finally the stock straightened by a machine process. This produces a super sharp, hard tooth, with the benefits of a long cutting life and a smooth, quiet cut. The teeth have a light set which gives a narrow kerf and reduces the waste produced whilst the hook configuration provides maximum penetration. These blades are perfect for ripping all types of timber, producing veneers and boards, the ground teeth retaining their edge far longer than normal milled tooth blades - a unique bandsaw concept.


Premium Bandsaw Blades

If you hit the occasional nail with your bandsaw blade, it invariably happens just after installing a new one! No longer a problem with these Premium Bandsaw blades! They use M42 High Speed Steel with 8% cobalt which has been welded to a spring alloy steel backing. This results in a material that has a far greater resistance to heat and abrasion, therefore giving improved cutting performance in those materials that might have proved troublesome with a Standard blade. All types of material can be cut with ease, including abrasive timbers such as teak as well as man-made boards like MDF and chipboard, where the glue used has little, if any effect on the life of the blade. M42 blades are so resilient that reclaimed timber presents no difficulties, as the blade will slice easily through the odd nail buried under the surface.


Back Tooth Bandsaw Blades

For woodturners, we have a unique blade concept, the Back Tooth bandsaw blade. Woodturners often prepare their own blanks, which is where the back tooth blade becomes particularly useful, as it has been specifically developed for curvature cutting. The teeth on the rear of the blade are not sharp to handle but have the effect of clearing the back of the cut by widening the kerf, enabling a much tighter curve to be cut making them an ideal choice for preparing timber for the lathe. Available only in 8mm 4 tpi configuration which is suitable for almost all machines.


Ripper 37

For deep rip cutting work we offer the Ripper 37 blade. Specifically intended for wood processing and deep ripping tasks, fitting only a few larger machines where motors of sufficient capacity are able to handle the 32mm wide blade. The teeth are precision ground using CNC machinery and then induction hardened. Furthermore, to ensure a very long working life, each blade can be re-sharpened up to twenty times, offering the best possible cutting performance.

Where are Axcaliber bandsaw blades made?

The answer is, right here in Axminster. All Axcaliber blades are made from UK sourced stock, sized, welded, finished and packed in our own engineering production facility in Axminster. Carefully chosen production techniques and constant quality control checks ensure each blade will exceed your expectations. And if the weld breaks under normal use, we will replace the blade, no quibbles.

New bandsaw owner? The blade supplied on your machine will not last forever, so eventually you will need to take the plunge and purchase a new bandsaw blade. To save you time and money, take a look through this guide and make the right choice first time.

The bandsaw is without a doubt one of the most useful and versatile pieces of equipment that any woodworker can have. This is mainly due to its ability to cut deep sections as well as curved and straight lines. Taking up minimal floor space and with a vast range of blades available, the bandsaw is an indispensable asset. The ability to rip, cross-cut, resaw, cut wafer thin veneers, tenon cheeks, bevels, curves and even circles makes the bandsaw the most versatile machine in the workshop.

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Axminster offers a wide variety of machines, so it can become a little confusing to decide what's best for you. Each user has their own set of requirements, which could mean that one machine may be more suitable than another. A furniture maker may need a bandsaw with a high fence, large depth-of-cut and powerful motor. To be suitable for tasks such as re-sawing or cutting veneers. A turner may wish to cut bowl blanks where the ability to fit and track a narrow blade is more important. Equally significant is a solid table, with an adequate width and good blade guides to counter sideways pressure.

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Key features of bandsaw construction

bandwheels

Bandwheels

The bandwheels are the mechanism by which the power of the motor is transmitted to the blade. Wheels should be well balanced to minimise vibration and for accurate blade tracking, a good quality tyre needs to be fitted. Smaller or Hobby rated machines usually have cast alloy wheels balanced by hand.  Larger capacity Trade or Industrial bandsaws have dynamically balanced alloy iron or cast wheels, which are made using sophisticated industrial machinery. The ‘flywheel effect’ offered by cast iron wheels improves cutting performance as well as damping out vibration. They are also better able to withstand the tensioning forces of larger blades.

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Frames

Modern bandsaw frames are universally made from folded, welded sheet steel. This provides an immensely strong and rigid framework to withstand the stresses created when the blade is tensioned. Were the frame to be of insufficient strength it would distort under load, pulling the top and bottom bandwheel boxes together. The vertical spine on many of the bigger Axminster machines is triangular in section, making it very stiff whilst the bandsaw boxes are reinforced with additional webbing to increase rigidity and strength. In addition, the gauge of steel used on Trade and Industrial machines is significantly thicker than the Hobby range.

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Blade Tensioning

This is undoubtedly one of the most important aspects of any bandsaw. If the blade isn't tensioned properly, the saw won't be able to consistently produce straight and uniform cuts. It is the spring that tightens the blade and a tensile force of up to 20,000 psi can be applied to the blade when it’s tensioned. This can go up to 30,000 psi if using a bi-metal blade as they are much stronger than 'stock' blades. The frame of the machine must be sufficiently strong to resist this force and not distort under pressure.

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Tables

All Axminster bandsaw tables, from the smallest Hobby machines to the largest Industrial saw, are made from cast iron. Not only does this material provide a smooth, flat surface but also the large mass helps absorb vibrations in use. All tables are mounted on robust trunnions and can be tilted from -5˚ - +45˚. This ensures that the blade is easily set at 90˚ to the table surface and the trunnions allow it to be tilted and set to any angle up to 45˚. The largest in the Industrial range have a handwheel operated, rack and pinion mechanism to adjust the table, the result of which is to enable the angle to be set accurately, even one handed!

back_tooth

Blade Guides

The main purpose of the blade guides is to prevent the blade from twisting during a cut. All Axminster bandsaws except the entry level Hobby Series use a pair of good quality ball bearing blade guides both above and below the table. These can be easily adjusted so that they just make the barest contact with the blade. A transverse thrust race bearing will also be found at the back of the blade, both above and below the table. This should be adjusted so that it’s clear of the blade by the thickness of a thick piece of paper. The ball bearing guides will also need to be adjusted when a thicker or thinner blade is fitted into the bandsaw.

bandsaw_fences

Bandsaw Fences

The fences on Axminster machines comprise a substantial extruded bar complete with a magnified scale lens, which makes accurate setting of the fence to the blade measurement a breeze! Onto this is mounted a deep, rectangular section aluminium fence which can be securely locked in place with a lever. A rigid fence is crucial for accurate, straight cutting whether producing veneers or tenons. Equally important, the fence should be adjustable to ensure it is square to the table and blade. Use the UJK Bandsaw Buddy for a quick and easy way of getting your blade, fence and table aligned.

Motors

The motor is the heart of the machine and should always be considered when buying a bandsaw. It must be adequate for all intended tasks, particularly deep sawing. If not, the lack of power could cause the blade to slow down or stop. All Axminster bandsaws use fan cooled induction motors, that are quiet and efficient. Trade and Industrial machines take that to the next level with DC induction or electro-mechanically braked motors. These will stop the blade within 10 seconds, conforming to educational and workshop safety standards.

Conclusion

A bandsaw is a key component of any wood workshop, some might say the first machine you should purchase. When buying one, you should consider the jobs that you will be completing as well as how much you will be using it and then look to match them to these features to find the right saw for you.

As with many saws, it will only be as good as the blade you put in it. To make sure you get the right blade, this Axcaliber blade guide should help.

Interested in buying a bandsaw? This guide covers the key pieces of information you need to know in order to get the right bandsaw for your needs.

In the workshop, the ability to drill a hole which is dead square to the horizontal plane is crucial. Therefore, the pillar drill, is one of those essential pieces of equipment that must be included at the outset. As well as its primary function of drilling holes, the addition of optional attachments increases the versatility of the machine; for example, to cut mortices. Using a drum sander in the chuck will also enable the pillar drill to be turned into an effective sanding machine for concave curves.

This guide is designed to help you with your decision. It will look at considerations and key features, so you can find the right drill for you.

Forstner bit in pillar drill

Considerations

The effective height of the machine is governed by the ‘chuck-to-table’ distance. This is the maximum dimension that can be fitted vertically under the chuck. A taller workpiece could be drilled, but this would entail moving the table through 90° in order for the workpiece to stand on the machined base. Similarly, the widest workpiece that can be drilled is determined by the ‘throat’ dimension, which is the distance from the centre of the chuck to the column. However, on certain machines, notably in the Hobby range, the head is able to tilt through a prescribed angle as well as slide back and forth. This greatly increases the ‘throat’ capacity and generally makes the machine more versatile. These are called radial pillar drills.

If the workpiece to be drilled is generally quite tall, then a floor standing drill is required. Conversely, smaller jobs may only require a bench mounted drill, which means that there is usually adequate storage room underneath. Bench mounted pillar drills are still very heavy and require a substantially constructed unit to support the weight. No matter what size drill you are buying we would strongly advise that they're assembled by more than one person!


Key Features of a Pillar Drill

The machines are relatively simple and are centred around a substantial steel column; onto one end is attached the motor, drive belt system and chuck. The other end of the column is securely located into a heavy cast iron base and between the two is the horizontal table. The table can be moved vertically by means of a rack and pinion mechanism operated by a convenient handle.

Axminster Trade Series pillar drill

Motor & Drive Belt System

This unit is the cornerstone of all drilling machines and consists of an induction motor at the rear, situated behind the column with the chuck directly over the table. The chuck speed can be varied by lifting up the interlocked cover, releasing the tension on the drive belt which is then re-positioned over the most appropriate pulleys. Chuck speed is very important as different materials will require different speeds for optimum drilling. The chuck is contained in a precision machined quill within the headstock. There should be virtually no play in it even when extended out to three-quarters of its travel.

Axminster Engineer Series pillar drill

The Table

The surface ground table can be raised up and down the column by means of a rack and pinion mechanism. There is also an option on many machines to tilt it, which means that the workpiece can be drilled at an angle other than 90°. Many tables, particularly in the Trade and Engineer ranges, have grooves around the edge to enable coolant to drain away. All tables have diagonal slots or grooves allowing a machining vice or additional pillar drill table to be bolted to it.

table_column

The Column

The column is a hollow cylinder of surface ground steel, ensuring that the table’s rise and fall is very smooth making the height adjustment a light task. The column should also be strong enough to maintain rigidity, therefore reducing vibration.

motor_drive_belt_system

The Base

This is a robust, heavy piece of cast iron where a flat horizontal surface has been ground. Moving the table sideways allows a taller workpiece to be drilled by standing it in on the base. The casting for the column is bolted securely onto the base at the rear and there is also the facility to bolt the drilling machine to either a bench top or floor.

Conclusion

Adding a pillar drill to your workshop is something everyone should consider. With the ability to bore perfect holes, as well as many other tasks, it's very high on the list. Before you purchase one, there are many things to consider, not only with the machine but also your own circumstances. How deep are your drilling? What material are you using? To name a few. Once you can answer these questions and therefore know the features you need, the right drill should be just around the corner.

In the workshop, the ability to drill a hole which is dead square to the horizontal plane is crucial. Therefore, the pillar drill, is one of those essential pieces of equipment that must be included at the outset. As well as its primary function of drilling holes, the addition of optional attachments increases the versatility of the machine; for example, to…

Why would you buy one?

For many woodworkers; amateur, trade or professional, the table saw is often a key item in the workshop and the starting point for many projects. Having the ability to perform a multitude of different tasks such as ripping, cross cutting and sheet material preparation, the correct table saw becomes an indispensable part of the workshop. It is probably the first machine that many would contemplate purchasing. However, the most important consideration is to understand exactly what the ‘correct’ table saw should be for any given application.

Moreover, it’s essential that it has the appropriate strength, longevity and capacity but above all, it has to be accurate.

table_saw

Applications

Table saws vary in size, function and price. Therefore it’s of great benefit to consider the probable applications when drawing up a shortlist.

In a hobbyist or amateur workshop, and in some trade workshops, a table saw might be called upon to perform a whole host of different tasks where a ‘general purpose’ machine is appropriate. Other more specialist establishments may require a large dedicated panel or rip saw.

For example, if fine furniture or restoration work is produced in the workshop, the machine may be called upon to cut solid baulks of heavy timber. In this instance, a good depth of cut, solid fence and powerful motor are important considerations.

Should panel or sheet board be the primary material cut on the saw, the maximum ripping distance from blade to fence and a good quality sliding carriage with support either side will be paramount. When veneered sheets are being cut, a scoring blade to minimise chipping on the underside is highly desirable.

table_saw_03

Key Features of a Table Saw

Weight

The weight of a machine is an important consideration. The heavier it is, the more stable the machine becomes in use and vibration will be kept to a minimum. It also provides a good indication of the quality of the internal components used during the manufacture. Unless a portable machine is required for site use, a cast iron table saw is far better for supporting large sheets or heavy, solid timbers.

the_table_alt

The Table

Whichever machine is eventually chosen, the table is the main support and datum for the timber being sawn. It should be smooth, flat and strong. With the exception of the very lightest, portable Hobby Series BTS10ST saw with an extruded aluminium table, all the other Axminster saws have finely ground, cast iron tables. These provide an accurate surface for your work, as well as providing additional mass to damp out vibrations.

rise_fall_tilt_controls

Blade Rise, Fall and Tilt

Using a table saw safely, accurately and to its full capacity means that it is necessary to adjust the height of the blade as well as its angle. The portable Hobby Series BTS10ST table saw is the only machine where the height and tilt controls are grouped together; all the other machines feature separate handles and mechanisms with acme threads for precise, easy height adjustment and accurate tilt of the blade.

internal_construction

Internal Construction and Trunnions

The trunnions on a table saw are crucial as it is this mechanism that supports the motor and saw unit. It should be robustly constructed in order to provide the strength and rigidity to enable it to carry the considerable weight of the motor as well as both the saw blade adjustment mechanisms. Cast iron is the material of choice as it meets all the requirements, whilst adding extra weight to the saw. The trunnions are machined for accurate and smooth operation when tilting the saw blade. They are bolted to the frame to further isolate the table from any vibration and provide added support.

rip_fence_rails

Rip Fence and Rails

Accurate ripping or straight cutting requires a dependable and precise rip fence. It should be sturdy enough to provide support to the wood as well as providing adjustment to ensure accuracy in relation to the blade and table. You should be able to adjust the fence so that it ends just past the centre position of the blade. This will avoid the timber binding against the fence, the result of which may be ‘kickback’. Axminster Hobby and Trade Series fences and rails are made from extruded aluminium whilst the heavier industrial saws use a solid steel rail and cast iron rail mountings.

mitre_fence

Mitre Fence and Slots

Table saws are provided with twin slots; one each side of the blade which means that the mitre fence can be used in either. All table saws are provided with mitre fences and you can upgrade these if you deem it necessary. The accuracy of the cut will be improved if the sliding table accessory is used with the saw. This is due to the movement tolerance of the mitre fence in the slot being removed.

sliding_tables

Sliding Tables

All Axminster table saws feature a movable table on the left hand side of the blade. This is either a built-in beam, which is part of the table itself and runs close to the edge of the blade, or an optional sliding table accessory. Both of which will enable more accurate mitre cuts in addition to giving more support when sawing sheet materials.

The sliding tables are easy to fit and adjustable to run parallel to the blade. When not required, they can be easily removed for storage, creating more space in the workshop. The larger sliding tables on dedicated Trade and Industrial Series panel saws are an integral part of the machine and consist of a telescopic support arm with a cross-cut table and movable beam.

table_saw_04

Health and Safety

A table saw of any description, used carelessly or incorrectly, is one of the most dangerous machines in the workshop. They can have the potential to cause life-threatening injuries. Basic health and safety precautions should always be observed when using one.

In order to avoid ‘kickback’ i.e. the timber being caught by the blade and thrown back towards the operator, always stand to the left hand side, never in the ‘field of fire’. Whenever performing rip cuts, always use a push stick or guide block so that your hands stay well clear of the blade. In businesses, table saw operators should use a push stick that is no smaller than 450mm (HSE requirement). Using a sliding table or mitre fence running in a slot is much safer as there is much more support. However, a hand span distance away from the blade is still recommended.

Crown guard

All Axminster table saws are fitted with a mandatory crown guard and riving knife that should never be removed when the saw is in use. In a professional workshop in the UK, it's illegal to remove these two items from a table or panel saw.

extraction

When cutting, table saws inevitably produce large amounts of dust. This is a health concern and should be removed at source by an efficient, dedicated dust extractor. Alternatively, the table saw should always be plumbed into a piped extraction system. Table saws are generally fitted with 100mm extraction ports as well as a smaller ‘take-off’ port on the crown guard, that aids the removal of saw dust directly over the blade.

Finally...

There are many different factors to consider when buying a table saw. Not only are these the features of the saw and how they will work for you but also your own personal circumstances. How much you will be using the saw. The jobs you need to do. Let's not forget, a key considerations is how much space you have available. The list is endless.

We hope this guide has gone some way to helping you know the key features of a table saw. With the goal of matching these up to your needs. Remember, the saw is only as good as the blade you put in it. If you need some help on finding the blade you need, this guide should help.

In this guide, we take a look at the key features of a table saw and how they will work for you.

Safety first

When you set up a woodwork, cabinet, woodturner's or joiners workshop, it can be a complicated business; with innumerable questions needing satisfactory answers about the activities and processes which go on in it. Most importantly, from a Health & Safety perspective, dust extraction is paramount and a sizeable proportion of the budget should be allocated towards ensuring that an dust extractor system or equipment is installed which matches both the woodworking machinery and it’s intended purpose.

Suitable Equipment

The topic of wood dust and it’s extraction is an immensely complex area. Woodworking machinery of any sort will produce waste of one sort or another. It’s this which must be managed by selecting the most appropriate equipment. Choosing the correct type of extractor can be confusing at best; with apparently conflicting requirements for collecting waste from a wide variety of woodworking machinery. Initially, we would recommend that the purchaser should have a clear picture of the type of wood waste you will produce in the workshop.

Key features of Dust Extraction Systems

  • High efficiency Impellor system gives high air flow from a modest motor power
  • Manual filter cleaning system, easy to maintain air flow. Axminster Industrial Series extractors incorporate an automatic filter cleaning system
  • Choice of inlet sizes for ducting or direct machine connection
  • A cartridge filter is a good practice and standard for coarse and medium dust. HEPA filter for fine dust such as from a drum sander used with fine abrasives
  • All extractors are easy to move around the workshop
  • All our extractors come with high capacity waste sacks or drums

Types of Dust Extraction Systems...

Chip or Large Dust Extractors

The Craft or Trade range chip extractors are designated as a high volume, low pressure (HVLP) machines; generally using a large (100mm diameter) hose. The mesh size of the filter bag needs to be coarse to allow the high volume of air to pass through it. Thus, the extractor is NOT suitable for filtering out the very fine dust which a sanding machine will produce. These machines are designed for the sole extraction of chippings or large dusts from a bandsaw, table saw, planer, planer/thicknesser or a spindle moulder. However, add a fine filter bag or 1 micron cartridge filter (this may be an option or inclusive, depending on the machine) will improve the performance which enables the machine to extract larger particles of sawdust from drum or belt/disc sanders. Cartridge filters are fitted with deep pleats to avoid loss of airflow. In addition, they are suitable to use with machines equipped with a 75mm and above outlet hose. A rotating paddle inside the filter allows the dust collected on the filter material to be shaken loose so that it falls into the sack below, which MUST be made from plastic. For the best results, we recommend using a chip extractor with a higher airflow capacity than is required by the machine it’s connected to.

Chip Extractors

Fine Dust Extractors

True cyclone extractors, which work on a very different principle to conventional machines, generally separate over 99% of the waste before it passes through the cartridge filter, offering high filtration performance. This means that in addition to chippings and sawdust, it will handle finer dust from a sanding machine. Replacing the 1 micron filter (supplied with some smaller machines) with the optional 0.3 micron HEPA filter improves the performance even further, meaning that it will now deal effectively with very fine particles from MDF. A Trade rated cyclone extractor with HEPA filter would form the basis of an excellent ducted system in the workshop, able to deal with all the chippings and dust normally generated. However, in a smaller workshop, these machines take up a significant amount of space and require adequate headroom to clear the top of the motor. In addition, the capacity of the drum may not be sufficient where the machine is in constant use by multiple users, though drum sizes are larger on 2 and 3hp cyclones.

Fine Dust Extractor

Vacuum Extractors

This type of machine works on the opposite principle to a chip extractor. A vacuum extractor generates a low volume and high pressure (LVHP) which means that as the vacuum pressure increases, the volume of the air passing through the machine decreases. They are able to deal with most types of wood waste, but the low volume of air passing through the machine makes them unsuitable as the primary extractor in a ducted system except on a 63mm system. They do, however, lend themselves to extracting waste from single dedicated machines where hose sizes are generally much smaller though some vacuum extractors use both large 100mm dia and smaller 32mm diameter hose. The Craft rated vacuum extractor is suitable to extract from a Craft branded planer, small table saw or small bandsaw. With the addition of a stepped hose reducer on the end of the hose, it can be used to extract dust from many power tools. Larger Numatic Trade rated machines may be fitted with an optional internal clip-on HEPA H14 filter module offering a 99.997% @ 0.5 micron capture rate (down to 0.5 micron) and disposable ‘Hepaflow’ bags for the safe and efficient disposal of waste. Where HEPA filtration is incorporated into the machine, the level of performance is about the best you can get.

Power Tool Extractors

Power tool extractors are small, dedicated vacuum extractors. They are specifically designed to deal with fine dust from power tools and usually use a smaller diameter hose. These should be rated at ‘M’ Class in a Trade environment to comply with the recommendations of the HSE. Some more general purpose machines are supplied with useful accessories enabling them to be used as a workshop cleaner as well as a power tool extractor. As they’re designed to deal principally with sanding dust, the level of filtration performance is very high.

Power Tool Extractors

Air Filters

When all the woodworking processes have been completed for the day, it’s very tempting to think that the dust generating processes have been finished. But, this is not the case. A ray of sunlight passing across the workshop will highlight an alarming amount of airborne dust; which may be as much as when the machinery was in use. To combat this airborne dust, ambient workshop air filters can be left running quietly in the background. These will electrostatically capture these very fine dust particles. Suitable for ceiling or wall mounting, or even just ‘stand alone’, ambient air filters will greatly improve the workshop environment. In order to decide on the correct size of the air filter, calculate the volume of the workshop and look to circulate the air approximately six times per hour. For the best results, leave the air filter to run for an hour after the machinery has been switched off. Or use the timer function to run the filter after all practical work has been completed in the workshop at the end of the day. Don’t forget to vacuum clean the filters at least once a week.

Air Filters

HEPA Filters

There are very strict dust exposure limits for people working in the woodworking industry. Which, in reality, are very hard to measure without expensive equipment and trained staff. Even though your static machinery is connected to an efficient dust extraction (LEV) system, there are two other areas where problems of dust exposure are generated: hand sanding (either with power tools or by hand) and cleaning up by brush or compressed air. All of these activities create clouds of extremely fine dust, the size your lungs will not appreciate. By using a vacuum extractor fitted with a HEPA filter, these dusts can be collected at source. This can be done by connecting the extractor directly to the dust outlet on a power sander; or by using a hand sanding pad with an extraction port. You can use the same machine to vacuum off dusts prior to finishing. Plus, with a suitable floor cleaning kit you can vacuum the floor. It’s faster and safer, leaves no dust to settle out and makes the workshop floor less slippery as well.

HEPA Filters

So, what is a HEPA filter and why do I need one?

HEPA stands for High Efficiency Particulate Absorption. A HEPA filter will trap all those dangerous particles that you probably cannot see except in the fading light through the window, but can smell. All wood dusts are a potential danger to health, the smaller dusts being the most harmful. By using a vacuum cleaner or extractor equipped with a HEPA filter you avoid these dangers. The HSE’s guidance is to use a vacuum cleaner or extractor that is at least an M Class machine; these use HEPA filters to meet this high standard.


Dust extraction for woodturning

Woodturning as a workshop activity can create a lot of fine particles and wood dust. Ensuring your extraction meets the needs of your workshop activity and the materials you are using is vital in making the right workshop extraction choices.

While a worn facial dust mask will go some way in providing protection, it is not enough to eliminate entirely the risk of dust inhalation. If wearing one you should ensure it fits tight to the face over the nose and chin.

The type of material you are turning will create different types of particles, some potential toxic. It is vital to ensure the level of extraction suits the material you are turning as well as your workshop activity. Woodturning as an activity is unique in that you can create varying particle sizes, from long, thick wood shavings, right down to fine dust particles when sanding. Therefore, more than one extraction type will be necessary for a tidy, dust free workshop.

Watch our Woodworking Wisdom video guide below, where professional woodturner Jason Breach talks through the varying dust extraction options suited to the woodturning workshop.


Conclusion

The dangers of wood dust are very well known and it would be foolish to ignore them. Fortunately these days there’s a huge range of equipment which is able to deal with it. Unfortunately, it’s also a very complex area with a large number of variables that need to be taken into consideration. Removing the wood waste at the source is the most efficient method. This method will usually mean constructing a ducted system with a powerful extractor at its centre. You may also require an additional vacuum extractor to deal with dust generated by power tools. Plus, you can double it up as a general workshop cleaner.

Discover more

If you found this article helpful why not take a look at our insight on LEV (Local Exhaust Ventilation) and learn what extractor is best for your workshop.

Safety first When you set up a woodwork, cabinet, woodturner’s or joiners workshop, it can be a complicated business; with innumerable questions needing satisfactory answers about the activities and processes which go on in it. Most importantly, from a Health & Safety perspective, dust extraction is paramount and a sizeable proportion of the budget should be allocated towards ensuring that…

A Workbench Buying Guide

The workbench is the focal point of any workshop, but what is the best workbench for you? A number of key questions need to be asked before you make a choice. How much space do you have? What is your budget? What is the main type of work you will undertake? In this guide we’ve split our benches into three main categories General, Premium and Bespoke. Of course, if you feel up to it, we have all the tools you need to build your own!

How much space do you have?

When looking to buy a new workbench most of us will have space issues. It is important to make the most of the space available and getting one with as much working area as possible will always be useful. If space is limited try our Axminster and Sjöbergs benches in our general section. If you are planning a new workshop take a look at our setting up a workshop series.

Insert banner - linking to https://www.axminstertools.com/ideas-advice/how-to-set-up-a-small-workshop/

What is your budget?

As we have said earlier, the workbench is the focal point of the workshop. However, having some money left to buy all those tools is equally as important. Axminster have quality bench options for all budgets.

What will it be used for?

Are you a woodworker or a metal worker? Or, maybe you’re both? Whatever you are this will have a bearing on what bench you will need. A woodworker, for example will be looking for at least two large vices and plenty of dog holes with options available in Premium, General and Bespoke. Whilst a metalworker will want a metal framed bench to be able to hold heavy loads, options available in General and Bespoke.

Click through to product range

General

Our general section covers a wide variety of budgets and uses. We’ll start with the Swedish made Sjöbergs brand. We offer two entry levels options, the Hobby Plus 1340 and the Nordic Plus 1450.

hobby_1340

Starting with the Hobby Plus 1340 workbench, which, as the name would suggest is firmly in the Hobby/DIY camp. The 1340mm long worktop (made from European birch) makes this perfect for when space is limited in the garage or workshop. Two rows of bench dogs, optional storage unit and plenty of useful accessories make this the perfect first time bench for crafting and DIYing.

nordic_1450

Similarly, the Nordic Plus 1450 is firmly in the crafting and DIYing camp. Again made from hard Nordic birch. Slightly longer (1450mm) than the Hobby Plus 1340, it allows the user to use it as a left or right handed bench. A storage module and full list of accessories are available.

diamond_d2

The Axminster Diamond D2 has a hard wearing, 1350mm long, solid beech laminated work surface, making it not only hard wearing, but extremely sturdy also. Designed to be used as a left or right handed bench, it also utilises the 20mm dog hole accessories available, plus there is an additional storage module available.

1700

The final instalment in the general category is the Axminster 1700 workbench. An affordable hobbyist bench, that gives you plenty of space to work on with the 1700mm work surface. Made from laminated beech, this bench is lacquered on both sides offering maximum protection against movement and warping.

Conclusion

The two Sjöbergs benches offer excellent options for crafters and DIYers from a respected name in the market. Axminster’s Diamond D2 bench is a serious DIYers bench where space is at a premium. If you need a larger hobby bench, that won’t break the bank, then look no further than Axminster’s 1700 workbench.

lie-nielsen

Premium

Our Lie-Nielsen benches really are a workbench to last a lifetime. Designed specifically with the wood worker in mind by highly skilled woodworkers, each bench is made of the highest quality North American maple. The choice of heights make them tailor-made to suit you and your workshop. These benches are then constructed by our Skill Centre team and come delivered to your workshop by Axminster’s own transport. If there is a Rolls Royce of benches these are them.

elite_1500 elite_2000 elite_2500

Sjöbergs Elite range of Cabinetmaker’s benches are constructed in European beech, which is renowned for its toughness and longevity. These are designed with the professional firmly in mind. To aid rigidity, these benches are heavier than most others of this type, the two quality vices and double row of bench holes allow the most complex of jobs to be undertaken. Available in three lengths, 1500, 2000 and 2500mm, each size can incorporate two types of storage module.

monster_m

Completing the premium range is our flagship Axminster bench. The Axminster Premium Monster M is traditionally designed and has a heavy duty construction made from European beech. It’s 1910mm length to has an integrated full length tool tray and an optional cupboard gives more tool storage. A unique feature on this bench compared with the others in this category is its use of 20mm dog holes, this allows the bench to be used with a number of Veritas bench accessories.

Conclusion

The Lie-Nielsen benches are beautifully constructed and will last a lifetime, but obviously come at a higher price. The three offerings from Sjöbergs give you size options which don’t impact on quality. The Axminster Monster M offers fantastic build quality for the price and compatibility with top Veritas accessories.

bott

Bespoke

Working with a company like Bott has allowed us to offer a bespoke workbench solution no matter what space or usage requirements you have. If you cannot find what you are looking from any of the above, our Bott bespoke option will have something for you. An almost unlimited option of heights, lengths, materials, cupboard and shelf options are available.

The workbench is the focal point of any workshop, but what is the best workbench for you? A number of key questions need to be asked before you make a choice. How much space do you have?


What is the contaminant?

You should select the correct filter for the application and contaminant (you may have to refer to the supplier of the material being used for this information). The class of filter being used in a respiratory protection product can be identified by a code.


Gas and Vapour (EN 14387 and EN 405) EN141

A - Organic vapours with boiling point greater than 65°C and good warning properties
B - Inorganic gases and vapours, e.g. Chlorine (not Carbon Monoxide)
E - Acid gases and vapours, e.g. Sulphur Dioxide, Hydrogen Chloride
K - Ammonia and organic ammonia derivatives
AX - Certain organic compounds with boiling points less than 65°C & good warning properties

Respiratory Protective Equipment

What is the most suitable respirator?

Disposable - face mask for dust/mists/fumes and nuisance level gas/vapour
Half face - respirator with replaceable filters
Full face - respirator with replaceable filters and protection for the face / eyes
Powered - clean air to the headpiece by drawing air through a filter


What is the hazard level?

Do you need protection for eyes, hands, ears etc? See our protective equipment buying guides below:

Eyes Ears Hands

In summary, Personal Protective Equipment (PPE) should really only be used as a last resort. Wherever possible, it is important to control the hazards at source. Where this is not possible, select the correct level of protection. Here it's important to bear in mind the hazard, the length of exposure and the working environment. Many of these have criteria laid down by the HSE. Please note, our guides are only an aid to selection; for full guidance on approved products we would advise that you consult the appropriate code of practice issued by the HSE.

www.hse.gov.uk


Discover more…

Our ‘Top Tips’ on Workshop Safety Guidelines For Safer Woodworking is a great resource if you are looking for maintaining workshop safety and ensuring everyone taking part in their next project feels confident and safe. What's more, our Meet The Maker- Matt Estlea is focused on the very talented Matt, who works part-time at Axminster’s Basingstoke store and is a prolific maker. Read our Knowledge piece to find out more about his career as a furniture maker.

Protecting your lungs is essential and the correct level of protection required should be identified. Testing how effectively a seal has been created on the face of the wearer is also important. Read our Respiratory Protection Guide focused on Respiratory Protective Equipment (RPE) for more information on this subject.

Our range of protective eyewear will help protect you while on site, in the workshop or garden.

protective_specs

As a "Rule of Thumb"...

goggles

Goggles (grade B) should be used for protection against potential risk from higher speed materials or particles, such as with cutting or grinding; equipment or activities that involve explosive force or pressure.

spectacles

Spectacles should be used at all other times, or as required by site or company policy.

EN 166 Personal Eye Protection Classification

This applies to all eye protectors and ensures they are manufactured to a specific standard. The specific EN 166 markings should be considered when choosing your protective eyewear -

Optical Class

A dioptre is the measurement of the optical power of a lens. Glasses for mild short-sightedness normally require lenses of about -1.00 to -3.00 dioptres.
A class 1 lens will have no measurable power to it. It will neither magnify nor reduce what you are looking at.

1 - Refractive tolerance ±0.06 dioptre
2 - Refractive tolerance ±0.12 dioptre
3 - Refractive tolerance ±0.12-0.25

N - Mist resistant
K - Scratch resistant

spectacles_colours

Clear - for use with good light levels
Amber - for use in low level light levels
Sunglare - for use in high light levels where sunlight can be a hazard
Silvered - for use where the work takes you both inside and out

Field of Use For Protective Eyewear

These tell you what the eyewear is designed to deal with. It relates to the frame, as it is the fit to the face that dictates the standard

3 - Liquids (chemical)
4 - Large dust particles
5 - Gas & fine dust particles
8 - Short circuit electric arc
9 - Molten metals & hot solids

Mechanical Strength

To achieve the standard, the eyewear must not only withstand the force indicated but also remain in place. The eyewear - while being worn by a dummy - is tested by firing a ball bearing towards it. 45m/s equates to 100mph and 120m/s equates to 260mph.

S - General purpose (12m/s)
F - Low energy impact (45m/s)
B - Medium energy impact (120m/s)

Personal Protective Equipment (PPE) should really only be used as a last resort. Ideally the hazard should be controlled at source. Where this is not possible it is essential that the correct level of protection should be selected, bearing in mind the hazard, the length of exposure and the working environment. Many of these have criteria laid down by the HSE. Our guides are only an aid to selection; for full guidance on approved products we would advise that you consult the appropriate code of practice issued by the HSE.

www.hse.gov.uk

Guidelines for choosing the correct protective eyewear including when to use goggles or spectacles plus details for selecting the mechanical strength.

Depending on how you need to protect your ears we can offer solutions from foam plugs to professional defenders.

foam_plugs

Noise induced hearing damage is preventable but irreversible once it has occurred. Noise reduction is one area where "overkill" is not the best policy. Reducing the noise level by too much can lead to isolation and unwillingness to wear the muffs.

working_cans corded

Several factors influence product selection:

Personal preference - do you prefer muffs or ear plugs?
Noise reduction required - what is the current noise level?
Environment - would a "push to listen" feature be useful
Other PPE - do you have to wear a face mask or hard hat?

How is noise measured?

Noise is measured in decibels (dB). Where average noise levels are being referred to then often dB(A) will be used, where it is peak or explosive noises being referred to then dB(C) can be used.

Because of the way our ears work you may only just notice a 3dB change in noise level, however a 3dB increase doubles the noise energy, so small numbers do not necessarily mean small differences.

Noise attenuation is the level by which noise is reduced not the level it is reduced to i.e. in an average noise environment of 105dB wearing protection with a noise attenuation level of 27dB will bring the noise level reaching your ears to 78dB.

level_diagram

When do I need to protect my ears?

The Noise Regulations 2005 require you to take action when either the average or peak noise levels reach certain values. At 80dB (average level) it is advisable to wear hearing protection, at 85dB it is compulsory. Likewise at a peak sound pressure of 135dB it is advisable whilst at 137dB it is compulsory.

hat_mounted

Personal Protective Equipment (PPE) should really only be used as a last resort. Ideally the hazard should be controlled at source. Where this is not possible it is essential that the correct level of protection should be selected, bearing in mind the hazard, the length of exposure and the working environment. Many of these have criteria laid down by the HSE. Our guides are only an aid to selection; for full guidance on approved products we would advise that you consult the appropriate code of practice issued by the HSE.

www.hse.gov.uk

Depending on how you need to protect your ears we can offer solutions from foam plugs to professional defenders. Noise induced hearing damage is preventable but irreversible once it has occurred. Noise reduction is one area where “overkill” is not the best policy. Reducing the noise level by too much can lead to isolation and unwillingness to wear the muffs….

Mobile machine bases...you either love them or hate them and I, unfortunately, fall into the latter camp, but I’ll concede that they do have their uses.

When the hobbyist workshop is of modest dimensions - let’s say single garage size or smaller - and you’ve accumulated some decent quality, heavy machinery, they’re almost essential. They’ll allow the woodworker to trundle, for example, a heavy planer thicknesser into a position where it can be used and park it again afterwards in a convenient spot against a wall.

What usually tends to happen though (and I’ve seen it in a couple of workshops) is that the keen hobbyist buys a big lump of cast iron, which ain’t necessarily the best for his or her needs, tries to fit it into the workshop, only to find that they’re up against the space restrictions imposed by four walls. That choice of equipment may be by design, but in a small ‘shop it invariably ends up on a mobile base of some description, as what’s not taken into account is that some free space is usually always required somewhere in the workshop to assemble or stand semi-completed projects.

Given the right choice of machinery to suit the workshop space and the intended projects, mobile bases aren’t really necessary, particularly if the requisite amount of planning is done when the workshop is set up. Perhaps one of the most useful applications for a mobile base is with a small table saw, where largish sections of sheet board need to be cut and space is needed to manoeuvre the material.

When mobile bases are used, there are a couple of issues which take on particular relevance, the first being that by necessity, the hobbyist will almost certainly have to use a trailing power cord of some sort. Workshops are dangerous enough places without the added risk of tripping over a 13A extension lead!

The second issue is that it becomes more awkward, though not impossible to link up a dust extractor to the machinery, but easier if a stand-alone appliance is used as is likely to be the case in a hobbyist’s workshop. Where a ducted system is installed, as in a trade workshop, hooking up a piece of machinery to it might prove a little irksome, if not downright difficult and very time consuming. My personal opinion is that mobile bases are a bit of a ‘curate’s egg’ and can be dispensed with if the location and usage of the machinery in the ‘shop is planned well in advance. However, this is not always the case where very small ‘shops are in use and machinery needs to be shoehorned into quite a small space.

If you’ve got particular views on this issue that you’d like to offload, feel free to leave a comment at the end of this Blog entry, or alternatively on our Facebook page.

Mobile machine bases…you either love them or hate them and I, unfortunately, fall into the latter camp, but I’ll concede that they do have their uses. When the hobbyist workshop is of modest dimensions – let’s say single garage size or smaller – and you’ve accumulated some decent quality, heavy machinery, they’re almost essential. They’ll allow the woodworker to trundle,…

I believe in H&S, I think it’s a ‘good thing’, but when I was much younger and a lot more foolish, I didn’t...so let’s just say that thus far, I’ve been lucky.  Here’s a question for you. How many times have you been out and about and seen a workman with a large petrol disc cutter, merrily slicing up paving slabs and surrounded by a massive cloud of white concrete dust? I’ll wager that the answer is ‘quite a few’ and moreover, I’ll also wager that the workman wasn’t wearing a dust mask or ear muffs!

In the summer, I saw one such operative doing exactly that and I couldn’t resist. I ‘politely’ enquired of his health, mentioning that he was totally enclosed in a white, opaque cloud of gritty dust. "It’s alright mate" he shouted back over the racket...“I’m 'oldin' me bref while I cut!”

Personally, I think the issue is that people just don’t see H&S as important until unfortunately, in many cases, it’s too late and their health has suffered beyond repair or they’ve had some ghastly accident, which may have been caused by neglect of some description.

It has to be said that I quite like dipping into Facebook from time to time and the pic below was lifted off the website recently. It shows a new dust mask and one that’s been contaminated after three days of planing and routing. What’s even more interesting is one of the comments that followed from Antony Holden (and I have permission to quote him here): “When I was young, I was indestructible. I only wore a mask when you couldn't see through the dust, or when I could be bothered to wear one. I used to cough it all off and never give it a thought. Now I'm older (46), I know I'm mortal. I'm hyper-sensitive to any and all kinds of dust and chemicals. Minor exposure to dust or fumes can make me feel ill, like I've been hit by a truck. I can't just cough it off any more. Now, I'm extraction paranoid these days, not only with all my tools, but my overall workshop too, AND I WEAR A FULL MASK FOR ALL DUSTY/VOLATILE ENVIRONMENTS. Hopefully it's not too late for me, but be warned - don't take your health for granted - you'll miss it when it's gone!”

Dust masks - before and after
Dust masks - before and after

I’m not nearly in the same dire circumstances as Antony, but this sort of comment is without doubt a wake-up call! I take the view that minor exposure to wood dust is part of the territory...it goes with woodworking and, provided sensible precautions are taken, the risk can be minimised so the routine in my ‘shop is as follows. When there’s more than a plastic carrier bag of shavings on the floor, the workshop gets cleaned and vacuumed. I have a decent extraction system, with a Camvac 386 at its heart, which is linked to all the major pieces of machinery. As well as this, I have two older Axminster vacuum extractors which are hooked up to other machines and another one which I use as a general ‘shop vacuum as well as an extractor for power tools. There’s also an Axminster ambient air cleaner (running off an electronic timer), which is very similar to the Jet AFS-1000B model. For sanding and machine tasks, I have a big box of Alphamesh cup respirators, which I thoroughly recommend.

For more information on Respiratory Protective Equipment (RPE) and how to stay safe please click here.

I believe in H&S, I think it’s a ‘good thing’, but when I was much younger and a lot more foolish, I didn’t…so let’s just say that thus far, I’ve been lucky.  Here’s a question for you. How many times have you been out and about and seen a workman with a large petrol disc cutter, merrily slicing up paving…

Bandsaw Blades: The merits of GT bandsaw blades

The merits or otherwise of bandsaw blades doesn’t make for a particularly enthralling woodworking blog entry. I can’t anticipate anyone hanging desperately onto the edge of their seat, gripped with nail numbing, teeth grinding, buttock clenching suspense as if it were the climax to ‘Jaws’. But nonetheless, as woodworkers, these humble things are of interest. As such, I'll be talking over GT bandsaw blades, (Ground Tooth bandsaw blades) and why you should try them out for yourself.

I’ve been using M42 blades (from another source) on my Startrite 352E bandsaw with reasonable results. These blades have the merit of being able to tackle the odd embedded nail. They will also handle larger quantities of materials like ply, without losing their edge. The ones I had been using were made from cobalt high-speed steel. They were so thick that a half-respectable Challenger tank could be made from them!

In itself, this isn’t a problem if the bandsaw is able to tension one. My Startrite, fully cranked up to ‘pinging point’ was just about able to cope with a 19mm blade. After some use it became a little tired, leaving me with the dreaded ‘washboard’ marks on sawn surfaces.

I use my big Startrite for deep sawing, mainly for producing 2 or 3mm thick veneers. It is ideal for when the finish straight from the saw blade should be so good that they can be glued to the substrate without further work. In an ideal world, passing the veneers through a drum sander would ensure that they’re of constant, even thickness with a smooth surface each side, but a really good sawn finish is the next best thing. Provided you’re not too parsimonious with the glue, the veneers will go down without too much of a problem.

Axminster Ground Tooth Bandsaw Blades

I decided to replace the ageing M42 with a 4tpi, 19mm Axminster Ground Tooth blade having heard great things about them. The teeth on these blades are ground with a diamond wheel rather than being punched and milled. This means that the tooth profile is far more accurate. They’re then induction hardened and will stay sharp for at least 30% longer than a standard milled tooth blade.

Whereas the Startrite just about manages the M42, the new 19mm GT blade could be tensioned ‘squeaky tight’. This is because it’s made from thinner stock material.

Ever the sceptic, I was just the teensiest bit suspicious of the performance claims of these blades. That said, I was more than pleasantly surprised. After around 30 minutes of sawing up some American cherry, the finish still looked like this. Not to put too fine a point on it but this is really quite good!

GT Bandsaw Blade
Cherry sawn veneer 1

Even after another hour or two of concentrated work, the finish from the GT bandsaw blade had only deteriorated slightly. Although there are some more obvious saw marks, it’s still good enough to glue straight onto the substrate.

GT Bandsaw Blades
Cherry sawn veneer 2

Are they worth it? The short answer is unquestionably yes! Axminster's GT bandsaw blades are seriously good and thoroughly recommended if you’re looking for some new blades for the bandsaw.

GT bandsaw bands, otherwise known as Ground Tooth bandsaw blades produce straighter cuts on larger, difficult to cut materials. Are they worth it? The short answer is unquestionably yes! Axminster’s GT bandsaw blades are seriously good and thoroughly recommended if you’re looking for some new blades for the bandsaw.

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